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July 18th, 2011Fine Dining at Homeeataduckimust 29 Comments

Last year, we failed miserably at maintaining a thriving rooftop garden.  We gave it the good old college try, even attempting to grow everything from seeds.  We have some idea as to why our zucchini, squash, and heirloom tomatoes never bore any fruit.  Perhaps it was the harsh winds coming from the lake.  Or we’d even love to blame the fact that we didn’t plant it in the ground.  However, we’re a little embarrassed to say that our neighbor across the way with whom we shared some of our seedlings ended up with a pretty kickass and abundant rooftop garden.  Most likely, though, it was the complete lack of flowers in the vicinity to attract bees for proper pollination.

This year we didn’t want to take a chance at another fruitless garden so we picked up plants from a local nursery.  Jared picked up 4 different types of tomatoes (black prince, german queen, mr. stripey and cherry) and strawberries.  While we’ve been crossing our fingers and waiting patiently to eat tomatoes from our own garden, Jared came up with this new twist on a caprese salad for dessert.

Basil Panna Cotta over Toasted Brioche Round
Topped with Basil Oil and Basil Seeds
A Quenelle of Tomato Sorbet
A Black Pepper Tuile
A Brush of Balsamic Reduction and Microgreens

Jared’s been on a panna cotta kick since our savory panna cotta post and we are no strangers to mixing basil and cream so it seemed only right that he make a basil panna cotta. We also picked up a packet of of basil seeds from our asian market.  We we first saw these seeds in desserts and drinks when we toured Asia two years ago.  They look like normal tiny black seeds right out of the package, but after re-hydrating them they puff up into what looks like slimy little tadpoles.  It sounds gross, but it adds a fun texture to your dessert.  This was by far my favorite portion of the dish.

Basil Panna Cotta

Ingredients

2 cups of heavy whipping cream
fresh basil (stem + leaves)
3 tablespoon sugar
1 packet of unflavored gelatin

Recipe

  • in a sauce pan, add the cream and basil and simmer on low for 20 mins. Do not let the cream boil over
  • add the sugar and stir until dissolved
  • start the gelatin with a tablespoon of cold water, then add it to the cream
  • stir well until gelatin has dissolved
  • pour into mold and place it in the fridge until ready to use

Basil Oil

Ingredients

A Handful of Basil leaves
Grape Seed Oil

Recipe

  • in a mortar or food processor, crush or blend the basil leaves, slowly drizzle the oil until well incorporated
  • using a fine mesh sieve or cheese cloth, strain the oil into a squeeze bottle

Let’s move on to the next portion of this dessert.  The more comical part.  The quenelle of tomato sorbet.  Here’s the thing, I rarely see Jared get frustrated in the kitchen.  At times… no wait, MOST of the time he’s got this confidence in the kitchen that borders on arrogance and I find myself constantly and dramatically rolling my eyes when he tries to go fancy.  Ah but this time, Jared suffered a bit from what I’ll call “Quenelle Fail”.  Sure a perfect quenelle shape is something that pastry chefs work a long time to perfect and sure maybe the tomato sorbet ended up being too icy for a proper quenelle.  But that night, I gotta say it was a bit refreshing to see Jared falter in the kitchen.  Hey, maybe he is human after all.  MAYBE.

After his first few failures and a whole lot of heckling from yours truly, I walked away to watch some tv.  Minutes turned to what felt like hours and I realized I hadn’t seen my husband in quite some time.  I meandered back downstairs only to find him STILL working on the quenelle.  “I WILL MASTER THIS”, he screamed and shook his chilled fists in the air.  <Insert massive eye roll> Apparently, if he practiced for too long the sorbet would turn too soft and he’d have to put it back in the freezer to get it back to the right semi-frozen state for quenelle-ing.  During the wait, he’d check the internet to watch quenelle technique videos.  In the middle of this frenzy, we came across an awesome quenelle video and post by one of our favorite bloggers, Leela of SheSimmers.com featuring Patrick Fahy of Blackbird in Chicago (at the time of the post).

Frustrated yet inspired all at the same time, Jared continued to practice over the weekend.  This resulted in many a quenelled vanilla ice creams and mango sorbets.  A few days later and to my dismay, he finally felt he had improved enough to make this dish presentable for this post.

Here we present to you his quenelle-ish tomato sorbet!

So, I’m not going to lie, Jared’s tomato sorbet did not hold a candle to the tomato sorbet we had at Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin.  I thought it tasted a little like frozen V8.  But hey, let’s give him a A+ for concept and effort!  If you try this yourself, I’d add a lot more sugar to taste.

Tomato Sorbet

Ingredients

2.5 lbs of ripe tomatoes
3 tablespoon of sugar
juice from 1/2 lemon

Recipe

  • score an X on the skin of the tomato
  • blanch in hot boiling water for 10 seconds
  • put the tomatoes in an ice bath
  • remove the skin and seeds
  • rough chop the tomato into pieces
  • place in a pan and cook for 15-20 mins on medium heat to remove most of the water and concentrate the flavor
  • place the cooked tomatoes in a blender.  Add enough water to get the blender going.
  • add the sugar and lemon juice and blend until smooth.
  • pass the puree through a sieve
  • follow the directions on your ice cream maker to make the sorbet

For a slightly savory addition, Jared made a very delicate black pepper tuile, a twist from the French Laundry tuile recipe.  This was my second favorite part of the dish after the basil panna cotta.

Black Pepper Tuile

Ingredients

4 table spoon butter (softened)
egg white from 1 egg
1/4 cup of all purpose flour
1 pinch of salt
1 tablespoon sugar
fresh cracked black pepper

Recipe

  • mix flour, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl
  • in another bowl, whip butter until smooth
  • beat the egg white into the dry ingredients
  • mix the butter a 1/3 at a time into the batter
  • mix well and spread batter onto a sheet pan lined with silpat to your shape of choice
  • sprinkle with fresh ground black pepper
  • bake at 325°F until golden brown and set aside to cool

Tomato Sorbet and Basil Panna Cotta

Ingredients

Basil panna cotta
Basil oil
Re-hydrated basil seeds
Toasted Brioche round
Tomato sorbet
Balsamic vinegar
Microgreens
Black pepper tuile
Recipe

  • reduce the balsamic vinegar in a sauce pot until slightly thickened
  • paint the plate or bowl with the balsamic reduction
  • place microgreens and basil seed on top of the painted vinegar
  • set the brioche on the bowl and place the panna cotta on top
  • dress the top of the panna cotta with basil oil, basil seed and fresh basil leaves
  • once the sorbet is at scooping consistency, carefully quenelle the sorbet and place it next to the panna cotta
  • place the tuile next to the panna cotta and serve

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  • http://pickyin.blogspot.com Chang Pick Yin

    I’ve only attempted a quenelle with homemade vanilla ice cream and two spoons, which turn out pretty good but promptly melted before I could shoot it. If I can offer anything, sorbets are usually better textured when using inverted sugars or partially mixed with inverted sugars (i.e. one part sugar syrup, one part corn syrup/glucose). There’s this raw egg floating test a pastry chef once showed me when I was in HK.

    Love your fluted panna cotta shape and Jared is hilarious!

  • http://twitter.com/foodalogue Joan Nova

    Love that you twisted it up with ingredients traditionally reserved for savory dishes and turned them into a beautiful and elegant dessert. Very well done! Good luck with your garden.

  • Ashley McLaughlin

    Fabulous story.  Like frozen V8…hahaha ;)  Pretty sure I would be in love with the basil panna cotta..mmm

  • http://noodlenthread.wordpress.com angie

    this looks so good! yet another amazing collaboration between you two. :-)

  • Anonymous

    if collaborating means eating more ice cream and sorbet, then bring it on!!!

  • Anonymous

    er, so, how obvious is it that he scooped it and then put it back freezer and then took it back out for the shot, therefore creating the fluted based? :)

  • Anonymous

    yes you would be- it’s a really sublime combo!

  • Anonymous

    Geez… you guys and your quest for perfection! So much attention, so many little details (look at the way he plated the dish!!) – The quenelle looks lovely… the effort paid off… I hope you took your time to savour the dish… your heart and sweat :) Great great flavours! 

  • Anonymous

    welcome to jared’s OCD life!!

  • Anonymous

    thanks joan!

  • http://twitter.com/rvank R van Kraayenburg

    Stunning photography, as always. The recipe for everything looks incredible too. 

  • sarah

    wow.  fabulous.  makes me miss chicago and getting free meals from you guys every once in a while.  :)  

  • Ky Foley14

    This is incredible! Wow! I LOVE the concept, to deconstruct a dish and turn it into this masterpiece is jaw dropping. And what stunning photography! What kind of camera and lens was used if you don’t mind me asking? I am in awe with the dish and photography as well as everything else on this site, I am so glad I found this site through FoodBuzz, I will definitely be back for more. =] 
    -FreeSpiritEater

  • BWCaptures.com

    Stunning job :) . I went to the MIT open house this year and they actually had a quennelle-making machine. It was hilarious and I was thinking… who would ever need this machine?!?! Well, if it were on sale, I’d get you one, Jared!! :) Great post.

  • http://iamafeeder.net Jackie

    So next time I’m in Chicago I’m coming over for dinner. Just so you know. Tell Jared to prepare himself… ;)

    Beautiful stuff! Glad to see that Baby Duck isn’t hindering creativity in the kitchen!

    Jax x

  • http://litebite.in Sanjeeta kk

    Wow…could not take my eyes off from the presentation! And tomato in a sorbet is something I would love to give a try. Thanks for that lovely  tweet which brought me here.

  • Anonymous

    We’re gonna hold you to that… this public comment is a binding contract! ;)

  • Anonymous

    Shoot us an email, it’ll be easier to explain it all that way :)

  • Anonymous

    Done!! Come back before bab learns to drive :)

  • Anonymous

    Thank you for your kind words! But uh this recipe needs tweaking for sure… Good luck :)

  • Anonymous

    Hurry up and come back, chica!

  • http://www.tastewiththeeyes.com/ Lori Lynn

    I give an A+ for the post.
    It reminds me of my grandparents’ roof garden at the Pratt Lane in Chicago in the ’60′s.
    LL

  • BWCaptures.com

    I like that :) . I’ll keep an eye out for the prototype ;)

  • Ellie | Gourmand Recipes

    Oh Alice, your dessert looks amazing! I love the flavor combo. Very clever. Your photographs are beautiful.

  • Amelia from Z Tasty life

    oh so stunning and love the Italian-ness of these flavors and colors!
    why have i no visited this gorgeous place in a while??? oh yes… I was in Italy!
    Glad I am back and reconnecting with my favorite blogs :)

  • http://madamefromage.blogspot.com/ Madame Fromage

    Oh my goodness, this looks so good I want to weep. I love pana cotta, but I’ve never tried making a savory batch — I make one from a Donna Hay cookbook with milk, vanilla beans, and rose petal syrup. This sounds just as delicate. You just made my day.

  • http://www.lapetitevancouver.com La Petite Vancouver

    Stumble upon your blog from tastespotting and I’m a fan already!
    Wow this plated dessert is a work of art ! Thanks for sharing the recipe and step by step photos for the plating, you made it looks possible for me to attempt it at home. 

  • http://www.eataduckimust.com/fall-menu-2011 Fall Menu 2011 | Eat A Duck I Must!

    [...] making some form of a deconstructed caramel apple.  Nothing says fall like Affy Tapple!!Ingredientssugar tuile salted chocolate caramel candied pecan cinnamon ice cream freeze dried apples (baby food aisle) [...]

  • http://www.aboutfoood.blogspot.com/ Yo

    This looks amazing! Can’t wait for summer to try it.

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